Rock Climbing Sites in the Verona Province

Rock Climbing Verona

Verona is well known for the Roma Arena with it's summer opera schedule and the story of Romeo and Juliett. The Verona Province has plenty of outdoor activities to offer, with Lake Garda and the Lessini Mountain Group covering a good part of the area.  With the several small valleys facing different cardinal directions and at varied elevations, there is a unique variance in weather patterns which makes climbing possible year round.  

The Verona province is the third best province in the Veneto to climb after Vicenza and Belluno.  There are several well developed cliffs in the Lessini Mountain Group, north of the city of Verona, sites on the eastern shores of Lake Garda, and within the Adige valley as it runs north toward Trento. The best developed and well known climbing area in the Verona Province is the Ceredo Climbing Site, which sits north of the city of Verona.  There are several smaller cliffs around Lake Garda that are interesting to explore. 

rockclimb-verona

 

Ai Falconi Rock Climbing Area, Verona Province

AL FALCONI ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

Ai Falconi is one of the newest climbing areas in the area around the city of Verona.  In the same area as the Ceredo Climbing Area and near the town of Ceredo, Ai Falconi offers two smaller sectors with about 20 climbs each.  The area sits higher up the ridgeline above the village of Ceredo and is in the sun most of the day.  A great place to check out if you are climbing in the area for a few days.

AI FALCONI CLIMBING GUIDE

Routes are listed left to right

  1. Prog. ?
  2. Copertina, 7a+/b,
  3. Fantasia, 7c+,
  4. Thank you Silence, NL (8b/c?),
  5. Sushi Bar, 7c+,
  6. Open your Mind, 8a,
  7. Effetto Dopler, 7a+/b,
  8. Super Jumar, 7a,
  9. Nikita, 7a+,
  10. Caneva world, 7a,
  11. La Pace dei Mondi, 8b,
  12. Black Out, 8a+,
  13. Cuore Grande, 7c+,
  14. Casa dolca Casa, 7c,
  15. Albatros, 7a+/b,
  16. Albatros “Lunga”, NL (8a?),
  17. Foer, 7c, (ch: Tosi),
  18. Il Filosofo e Penelope, NL,
  19. Sotto Pressione, 8a+/b,
  20. Le Radici del Cielo, 7c,
  21. Crack Game, 6c,
  22. La Lacrima di Polifemo, 8a,
  23. Cavalchina, 7c/+,
  24. PSI, 6b,
  25. PSI+Copatico, 7c/+,
  26. Sole e Luna, 7a+,
  27. The Invisible Man, 6c+,
  28. Fotti il Fotografo, 6a+,
  29. Connessione Invisibile, 6b,
  30. Porco’s Pino, 6c,
  31. Nonno Bieto, 6b+,
  32. Risveglio Muscolare, 6a,
  33. Le 9 Primavere di Ale, 6b,
  34. Ifix Tcen Tcen, 7a,
  35. Fuffy, 6a,
  36. Sei…, 6a+,
  37. 85+15 , 6c,
  38. Attimi di Luce, 6c,
  39. Prog.!?
  40. Drink another little GRAPPA before U die, NL (7c+/8a?),
  41. Il Resto Conta Meno, NL (8a/+?),
  42. Il Mai è dispari, NL (8a?),
  43. Mon Ami Saint Lucie, 7a+,
  44. I Fantastici 4, 6c+,
  45. Caramelle, 7b,
  46. Lisa Violenta, 7c,
  47. El Popo de Stenech, NL (8b?),
  48. Tashi Delek, 7c,
  49. Tashi Delek “Lunga”, NL (8b?),
  50. Prog. ?
  51. L’avvelenata, 7a,
  52. I Turnisti, 7b,
  53. Non Ti Scordar di Me, 5c,
  54. Come i Pomodori, 6a,
  55. …………, 6a+,
  56. Isis, 7a+,
  57. La Vergine delle Rocce
  58. Estasi, 7a,
  59. Prog. ?

 

Stallavena Climbing Area, Verona Province

STALLAVENA ROCK CLIMBING AREA | VERONA PROVINCE

Stallavena Rock Climbing Site

 

Stallavena Rock Climbing site is located in the Verona Province of the Veneto Region.  A great site for beginner climbers and families, utilized by the local Climbing Club Italy and a caving group for training.  Sitting just north of Verona it is worth a couple of hours visit before returning to explore the city.

WHAT IS THE CLIMBING LIKE AT STALLAVENA

This site has been a training ground for local climbers and climbing schools.  Until Cerado was developed Stallavena was the primary site north of Verona.  The cliff offer single pitch climbs on vertical and less than vertical walls.  There are no major overhangs at this site and the problems tend to be one move crux routes.  There are several easy routes, but attention needs to be paid to the fall area and distance between bolts.  A nice site for climbers under the 6c level but more advanced climbers could get bored quickly.

GETTING TO THE STALLAVENA CLIMBING AREA

Stallavena is reached by provincial bus from Verona to Bosca Chiesanuova, getting off at the Stallavena stop you can walk to the cliff in 15-20 minutes.

If you are driving you will need to reach the Verona Est exit and follow the signs toward Grezzana and Bosco Chiesanuova.  In about 10 km you will actually see the cliff on your left, exit the main road at Stallavena and follow the signs to the Chiesa.  Driving up the hill until you reach the Chiesa where you can park, then walk back down the road to the first turn where you will find a trail leading to the center section of the climbing site. 

Stallavena climbing site

STALLAVENA CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Veneto Region
PROVINCE Verona Province
Geographical Lessini Mountain Group
NEAREST CITY Verona
NUMBER OF CLIMBS 130+
GRADES 3 - 7b
HEIGHT 30 meters
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
BEST TIME OF YEAR
Spring and Fall
Winter in the morning
Summer in the late evening
NUMBER OF CLIMBING DAY
1 day
GUIDEBOOK stallavena-guidebook-new

SUGGESTED CLIMBS AT STALLAVENA

Messaggeri del teschio 7a+
Gran Strapiombo 6c+
Anatomic 6a+
Famiglia Felice 6b+
Mandrillomaniaque 6a

You can find plenty lodging in Verona, but there is also a hotel in Stallavena, this is not a bad place to base yourself the explore other crags in the Verona area.  You can still camp above the cliff area if you maintain a low profile and no fires.  For a guide book and general information go to the Alpino Bar near the centre. 

Rock Climbing Guide to the Verona Province

VERONA PROVINCE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

monte-cimo

The Verona province is the third best province in the Veneto to climb after Vicenza and Belluno.  There are several well developed cliffs in the Lessini mountains north of the city of Verona, sites on the eastern shores of Lago di Garda, and within the Adige valley as it runs north toward Trento.

rockclimb-verona

WHAT IS THE CLIMBING LIKE IN THE VERONA PROVINCE OF ITALY

Most of the cliffs that have been bolted in the Verona Province are limestone that has been craved out during the Ice ages.  So you will find more crimping and side pulls rather than finger pockets. Most bolted cliffs are one pitch sport climbing routes, but there is also a few multi pit routes in and Adige Valley.  There is no bouldering fields in the Verona Province, but there are a few small areas to traverse and climb off the rope.  Due to this lack of bouldering areas there are a few very good indoor facilities in or near Verona, the best being Kings Rock indoor gym.

HOW TO GET TO THE VERONA PROVINCE

The easiest way to get to Verona is to fly into Venice Marco Polo Airport and then take the train to Verona.  If you make a stop in northern Europe look for a flight in the Verona Airport.  From there you can rent a car to access several good climbing areas.  Verona city offers the best varity of Lodging and places to explore after climbing. 

HOW MUCH TIME SHOULD I PLAN ON CLIMBING IN THE VERONA PROVINCE

If you are a strong climber you could spend a week climbing in the Verona Province.  However, if you are only looking break up the flow of a normal vacation with a few active adventures plan 2-3 days in the Verona area and then move on to the Vicenza Province or Trento Province.

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE VERONA PROVINCE

  1. Ceredo Climbing Area, Verona Province
  2. Ceraino Climbing Area, Verona Province
  3. Falesie del Forte Climbing Area, Verona Province
  4. Marciaga Climbing Area, Verona Province
  5. Monte Cimo Climbing Area, Verona Province
  6. Rivoli Climbing Area, Verona Province
  7. Soave Climbing Area, Verona Province
  8. Stallavena Climbing Area, Verona Province
  9. Ai Falconi Rock Climbing Area, Verona Province

 

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