Rock Climbing Liguria Region

Rock Climb Italy, Liguria Region

Liguria has been the winter destination for climbers in the Eastern Regions of Italy for several years.ยท Finale is perhaps the second largest bolted area in Italy, behind Arco in the Trentino region. There are some classic routes that are part of Italy's and Europe's sport climbing history in Finale, and in the last 15 years some other crags in various valleys have gained notice.

climb-liguria

If you can get to one of the sites I have listed, be sure to buy the local guidebook especially if it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend are routes I have tried over the years, not all routes will be up to date.

BEST TIME TO CLIMB IN LIGURIA REGION

Liguria has been a winter climbing destination for most European climbers.  The weather is mild enough for 4-6 hours of climbing, and there are sites you can frequent even if it is raining.  There other attraction is that there are lots of cheap sleeps since it is off season for the sea side resorts.

PLEASE READ:

If you can get to one of the sites I have described: be sure and buy the local guidebook if it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend and routes I have tried over the years, I cannot tell you how some of the routes are now since I do not climb at the same level.

ROCK CLIMBING SITES IN THE LIGURIA REGION

  • Varazze
  • Tirora
  • Toirano
  • Scagilun da lelua
  • Riva Trigoso
  • Punta Manara
  • Praglia
  • Orca Feglino
  • Maggirasca
  • Lago Valnoci
  • La Sfinge - Delva
  • Cravasco
  • Balardetto

Loreto Climbing Area, Imperia Province

LORETO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

Rock Climbing Italy, Loreto Climbing Site Liguria

Loreto and Trova Climbing Sites in the Liguria Region of Italy, are located in the upper part of the Argentina valley.  The climbing site is made up of serval small cliffs withe over 100+ fixed routes.  There are still other small cliffs with 20 or less routes.

LORETO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE Imperia
NEAREST CITY Imperia
GEOGRAPHY Italian Alps
Rock Climb Italy, Liguria Region
BEST TIME OF YEAR
Spring and Fall
TYPE OF ROCK
Limestone with edges
HEIGHT
140 meters
RANGE OF GRADES
5b - 7c
LENGTH OF ROPE
60 meters
EQUIPMENT
15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOKS
 

RECOMMENED ROUTES:

  • Lacimi 6b
  • Il Cappello di Eva 5c
  • Tu mi turbi 6c+
  • Vico ale 6a+

Castelbianco Climbing Area, Savona Province

CASTELBIANCO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | LIGURIA REGION

Rock Climb Italy, Castelbianco Climbing Site Liguria

A nice alternative to climbing in Finale Ligure, the Castelbianco area has become one of THE destination climbing sites in Italy.  The rock is of the highest quality and climbing is athletic with grades closer to the French style than Italian.  The climbing site is located north of the town of Albenga in the Pennavaira valley. Castelbiano is the primary site, but there are multiple crags in the valley.

CASTELBIANCO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE Savona
CLOSEST CITY Albenga
GEOGRAPHY Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall to Spring is the best season or late evening in Summer
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone with varied features
HEIGHT 100 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 5c to 8a
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOK/MAPS  

RECCOMENDED ROUTES:

  • Bissia 7a
  • Ombre rossa 7a
  • Timida 6c+
  • Cindy wau wau 6c+
  • Aladdin 7a
  • Dulfer in fondo 7a

Muzzerone Climbing Area, La Spezia Province

MUZZERONE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | LIGURIA REGION

muzzarone

Great site just south of popular tourist destination of Cinque Terre (5 lands). The climbing is on good quality limestone that sits above the rocky coast of the Ligurian Sea. There are several small sectors, each with a few quality routes, I enjoyed the central wall and the Atlantide sectors. There are plenty of things to enjoy in the area and a few other climbing areas inland in case of poor weather.

MUZZERONE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE La Spezia
NEAREST CITY La Spezia

Rock Climb Italy, Muzzarone Climb Map

BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone, pockets and columns
HEIGHT 200 meters
LENGTH OF ROPE 70 meters
EQUIPMENT  15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOK  

There are several sectors to climb at each has a variety of difficulties and styles

 SECTORS

Rock Climb Italy, Muzzarone Sectors

1. PARETE CENTRALE
2. SPECCHIO and ATLANTIDE
3. GARIMPO
4 POLVERIERA and POLERIERA
5 CAJENNA
6 ORATORIO and PARETE STRIATA
7. MANDRACHIA
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