Rock Climb Trentino-Alto Adige Region

Rock Climbing Trentino-Alto Adige in Italy

Many of the rock faces in the Trentino valleys were bolted so that one could sharpen skills and exercise the body as needed to climb the vertical walls of the Dolomite's. Today there walls are an attraction in themselves, and there is no end to the amount of sites to explore and many of the sites are within easy reach of public transportation.

The natural and artificial rock walls in Trentino are ideal for all levels and ages of climbers. The home of rock climbing is without doubt Arco (Upper Lake Garda) where the Rock master competition is held every summer. However, every valley has a wall suitable for any ability.

Dozens of other training grounds have been set up in a number of other centres in Trentino where you can climb in complete safety. In addition, there are many equipped indoor facilities even in public parks and artificial walls used for rock climbing meetings and competitions. Many of the 150 Alpine guides in Trentino are also qualified to teach rock climbing, while courses and specialisations are organised throughout the summer by the many schools in operation.

climb-trento

PLEASE READ:

If you can get to one of the sites I have described: be sure and buy the local guidebook if it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend and routes I have tried over the years, I cannot tell you how some of the routes are now since I do not climb at the same level.

Trentino-Alto Adige Climbing Sites
Brentonico Passo S. Giovanni Spiaggia della Lucertole Massone
Arco Comp Wall San Paolo Nuovi Orizzonti Torlino
Celva Nembia San Lorenzo in Banale Poza Vecia
Palestra del Doss Mejo Pejo La Palestra di Malè Nago
Massone Val S. Nicolo Le Streghe Grigno
Sottosassa Funes-Malga Zanes Valle di Landro Putia
Mara Meisules dalla Biesces Cansla Sass Dl Acia Balparola
Bernardi Palestra Bernardi Sassi di Carezza Marder Platte
Boarwald Rifiano Sefnarwand Ungmann
Tobl Malga Zanes Val di Landro Passo Sella - Ciavzes
Val S. Nicolo Ronchi - Moena Rorno - Palestra Giulio Gabrielli Sottosassa
Castelpietra San Silvestro Totoga Carzano
Val di Sella Fonzaso Val di Schievenin  

Spiaggia delle Lucertole Climbing Area, Trento Province

Spiaggia delle Lucertole Climbing Area, Trento Province

Spiaggia Lucertole Rock Climbing Site Italy

Spiaggia delle Lucertole is located along the eastern shore of Lake Garda and in the Trentino-Alto Adige Region.  The climbing site is a nice grey limestone wall with technical routes on a slab wall.  Spiaggia delle Lucertole was bolted in the late 70's or early 80's by some of the historical climbers of the region.  Once a popular place to climb the area is now a bit polished and most people visiting the area, are there to climb the beginner slab walk on the opposite side. 

Spiaggia delle Lucertole would be an excellent deep water solo site if the wall was overhanging, instead you risk hitting the wall is you fall from higher up.  The base of the routes can be reached by lowering off from above. Be sure to have a good sling to attach yourself to the wall with that is long enough for you to be comfortable in the belay.

Spiaggia Lucertole Map

SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Trentino Alto Adige
PROVINCE Trento Province
LOCATION Arco
GEOGRAPHY Monte Baldo
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES 20+
GRADE RANGE 6a+ to 7c
TYPE OF ROUTES technical, crimps, footwork
HEIGHT 35 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, sling for belaying below

Special notes:  Parking is limited and not always safe.  Be sure to leave nothing in your car. 

GETTING TO SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE

If you are climbing at Spiaggia delle Lucertole it is most likely because you are visiting the Arco Climbing Area.  So coming north from Torbole you will drive south along Lake Garda.  The climbing area is about 10 km from Torbole.  If you are driving from somewhere other than Arco I would suggest you exit at the Rovereto Sud autostrade exit and following the signs to Riva del Grade until you arrive to Torbole.  Driving up the lake from the south is a nice drive but if you are there during a weekend or holiday season there is too much traffic.

You can reach the area by bus from the Rovereto Train station. 

ROUTES

Daffy-daffy         6a+   
Ventofobia 6a+
Without name 6c
Funky ma chic       7b
Bepi nero 7a
Piccola dose 7a+
Honky tonky 6b+
Cicala clack 7b+
Peyote al rabarbaro    7c
Pat und patachon 6b+
Albatros 6b/7c 
Luisa violenta 6b+/5b/7a 
La signora degli appigli    7c
Non seguitemi mi sono perso   7b
Tom tom club 6b/7b
Sentierissimo 7a
Laurie 7a
Trota 6c
Tom e Jerry 7c

Serrada Climbing Area, Trento Province

Serrada is a small crag located in the Pre-Alps, at 1250 meters elevation, making it a good location for the hotter months. The crag is a vertical sheer of Grey limestone that offers 36 routes, to date, ranging from 6a to 7b.  There is still room for future development and the quality of rock makes climbing enjoyable and changeling on small edges.  Good finger strength and technique are demanded.

ACCESS

From the A22 motorway exit Rovereto Sud head towards Serrada by car 28 km, then 5 minutes on foot.
Exit from the Autostrada Rovereto Sud and follow the indications for Rovereto. After 1.5 km turn right on the main road towards the centre of Rovereto and pass the commercial centre (Millennium Centre). At the second roundabout turn left in the direction of Trento SS 12 and take the left-hand land. Continue straight on, until the large roundabout at the train station (from the motorway's exit A22 Rovereto Sud 7 km). Turn right and follow the signs for Centro and SP2 Serrada- Folgaria. Take the SP2 Serrada-Folgaria and continue for nearly 19 km, passing through the various villages of the Comune di Terragnolo. After passing the sign "Magnifica Comunità di Folgaria", the Restaurant Cogola can be seen on the curve. Park the car on the right after 50 meters in a large parking area. From here enter via San Rocco on the extreme right, and continue for another 20 metres shooting off at the first curve on the right. Follow the track behind the Ristorante Cogola, and after 100 metres the track becomes a descending path that enters into the woods leading to the crag.

SERRADA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Trentino Alto Adige
PROVINCE Trento Province
LOCATION Rovereto
GEOGRAPHY Monte Lessini
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES 30+
GRADE RANGE 6a+ to 7c
TYPE OF ROUTES technical, crimps, footwork
HEIGHT 35 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, sling for belaying below

Special notes:

ROUTES

SECTOR A        
Maiyumi             7b      
Tsunami 6a+
Manu 4b
Mr. Boombastic 4a
Eclisse 99 6b
La morte nera 6c+
Starway to Heaven       6c
Danton 5a
Hawk 6a
Spitfollia 6a+
Phoenomena 6a
Ghost 6a
Microtest 6c
Melancholy 4b
SECTOR B  
Spider 6b
Megawatt 6b/c
Die hard 6b
Crow 6b
Mururoa 6a
Jessica 6a+
No love 6c
Balla coi lupi 6c
Condor 6b+
Esorciccio 6a+
Maiemi 6b+
Mani di velluto 6b+
The wall 7a
Kaos 6b
Zanzibar 6a
Caduta massi 6b
Giada 6b
SECTOR C  
Cuzco 6a+
Indios 3c
Kursk 6b
Totem 6a
Tsaatan 5b
Yeti 5c
Ibis 6a
Lady Diana 6a+
Ghibli 6a+
Mephisto 6b
Lucifero 6c
Congedo express 6c
Traverso perverso 6b
Due dita prime falangi      6c
Jovannona 6b
Angel of death 6c+
Robespierre 6c
Pirata 6c
Chipko 5a
SECTOR D  
Ayers rock 6a
Hidalgo 6a
Inca 5c
Viper 5a
Nandu 5a
Za' Bj 4a
Bali 5c/6a    
Machu Picchu 6b
Licheni 6b
Tarkine 6b+
Ugly 6b+
Miwok 6a
Maya 6b+
Euro 6a
Canyon 4c
SECTOR E  
Non mollare mai 6c+
Braveheart 6b+
Zia Lilli 6a
Variante 4a
Kombai 5a
Spirit 6b+
Time flies 6b
Rocky grey 6b+
El paradiso 6b
Super Silvia 6b+
Yunnan 6c
My wife is an angel 6b+
Malik 6a
Sun 6a

Massone (Policromuro) Climbing Area, Trento Province

Rock Climbing Arco Trento, Massone

Massone is still one of the most popular climbing sites in Italy.  If you are in the Arco area you will want to head up to this multi-colored wall, (the other name for the Massone area is Policromuro, which translates to multi-colored wall).  A solid grey and red striped limestone wall with over 130+ routes ranging from 5a to 8c.  This is a great mid-season area or winter site, otherwise the rock tends to get slippery on hotter days due to the polished rock.  In the summer it is best to climb in the late afternoon, and in winter it is best to climb early morning.

ACCESS

From Arco by car 2.8 km or 3.5 km (Sector Pueblo).
From the bridge over the river Sarca follow the SS45 in the direction of Trento - Madonna di Campiglio. After 600 metres turn right for Massone/Falesia Policromuro and follow indications for Falesia Policromuro. Once in the village enter Via degli Olivi (a narrow road) leading to the olive groves. Continue following the signs to Policromuro until parking where the terrain levels out (10 parking places). This is ideal for the lower sectors, for the other sectors continue another 200 metres to a smaller parking area at the base of sectors A and B which has space for a further 8 cars. For the sector Pueblo continue along the road and after the third turning on the left there is a small lay-by.

Massone, Arco Rock Climbing Area

MASSONE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

ROCK CLIMBING AREA Arco Climbing Area
NEAREST TOWN Massone
APPROACH TIME 2 minutes
EXPOSURE East
BEST TIME OF YEAR Winter
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 or 70 meter
ROCK Limestone
STYLE Technical, finger strength
NUMBER OF ROUTES 135+ (5b - 8c)

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Kabul (Big Jim) 6b
  • Sovieto supremo 7b+
  • Greta 7a
  • Cannonau 7a
  • Action direct 6c+
  • Halloween 7a

Massone Climbing Area, Arco

ROUTES

SECTOR A              
Piccola luna 4a
Formica Lodovica     5a
Giacca gialla 5b
Banane fisch 5a
Lara Croft 5c
Gelateria Tarifa 6b
Easy rider 6c
Alce volante 6a
Boiacca 5c
Giuditta 6a
Pesce d'aprile 6b
Skoda 6b
Gocce d'ansia 6b/c    
Pegasus 6a+
Zac 5c
Tac 5c
SECTOR B  
Tivoli 6a+
Fra fra 6b
Fur eine hand 6a+
Dottor Plantier 6a+
Zlu' 6a
Nino 6a
Tangram 6a+
La bamba 7a+
The mirror 6c
Spectum 6b+
Red point 7a+
Mirta del pineto 7a+
Marsabit 7c
Stressami 7c
Desiree 7b
Loacher 7b+
Not normal 7a+
Vite minori 6c
Let me life 7b
Il ladro di saponette     8a
C'è qualcuno che non sa   7b/c
Deasy 6c+
La variante 7a 
Tis sa arc  6c 
Cannonau  7a 
Crisi  7a 
Via le man dal cul  7a 
Marlene  7b 
Greta  7a 
Varna 
Sulla pancia di Nike  7c+ 
Mantide atea  7a 
Variante diretta  7b+ 
I buoni cattivi  7c 
Sangit  7b 
Panico sopra l'orlo  7c 
Profumo di invisibile  8a 
Soviet supremo  7b 
Bevery hills  7b+ 
Kabul  6b/c 
I like Gorba  6c 
Killer event  7b+ 
Action direct  6c+ 
Incantesimo  8a 
Ricky bike  8a 
SECTOR C  
Musetto e Big Gim 6b+
Super Golia  6c+ 
Heliotrop  7b 
Berny  7c+ 
Ictus  6c+ 
Destinazione arena  7c+ 
Without name  5a 
Sabato turistico  6c 
Prime espressioni  6a 
Tulllio e l'amore  6a/b 
Hurgada  6b 
Over booking  6a 
Raper  5b 
Settima luna  6c+ 
Ektoplasma  6b 
Odio la polvere  6b 
L'unicorno  6a 
Stattento  6a 
Imperite's  5b 
Marina's  5a 
SECTOR OSTRICA BLU  
Rettoscopie 6b+ 
Il culto dell'ostrica blu  6b 
Fata morgana  7a+ 
Il ritorno di Aly  6b+ 
Ulla lo strapiombo che ti trastulla     6c 
Un bacio di Karin  7a+ 
Halloween  7a 
Ottopromille e più  6c+ 
Ottopromille  6c 
Briciola  6b+ 
SECTOR ABISSI   
La chiave 7b+
Utopia  6c 
Zelda  7c 
Red Rocks  8a 
Alpen liebe  6c+ 
Il calabrese  7c 
Open area  8a+
M.S.  7c 
Beach boys  7b 
Without name  8a+ 
Disneland  7c 
Efrem de sisco  7a+/7b   
Rubagotti  7c 
Epilogo  7a+ 
Bonsai  7c 
Abissi  7c 
Pilotwings  7c 
Cannabis   7b+
Onlylocals  7b+ 
Gameboy  7b 
Gameboy plus  8a 
Ultimo dubbio  7b 
Il vizietto  7c 
La cucina dell'inferno  8a 
La fessura porta alla paura  7a/b 
Il cattivo is Ueberall  7c 
Meglio un giallo che un giallo  7c 
Ramses  7c 
Ludness  7a 
Warner Broz  7b 
Il ballatoio  6c 
La cura della fessura  6c 
Mangia cacca  7a 
Gino e la sfiga  6b+ 
Lo scolaro  6b+ 
Aladin  7a 
Adelante  7a+ 
Duracell  7b 
Confetti  6b 
SECTOR PUEBLO   
Blondkopf 7b+
Troppo leicht  7b+ 
Troppo schwar  8b 
Super attico  7c+ 
Haleboop  8b+ 
Grado dipendenti  7c 
Taifun  8b+ 
Big spender  7b+ 
Randa  8a+ 
Fuego  8a/b 
Underground  9a 
Under vibes  9a 
X-large  8c 
Super maratona  8b+ 
Maratona  8b 
Athena  8b+/c 
Reini's Vibes  8c/+ 
La pietra murata  8b+ 
Il muratore  8a+ 
Shaved beaver  7c 
Flytrap  7a+ 
Twingo  7b+ 
Kathamartina  7b 
Mike jordan  8b 
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