Rock Climb Trentino-Alto Adige Region

Rock Climbing Trentino-Alto Adige in Italy

Many of the rock faces in the Trentino valleys were bolted so that one could sharpen skills and exercise the body as needed to climb the vertical walls of the Dolomite's. Today there walls are an attraction in themselves, and there is no end to the amount of sites to explore and many of the sites are within easy reach of public transportation.

The natural and artificial rock walls in Trentino are ideal for all levels and ages of climbers. The home of rock climbing is without doubt Arco (Upper Lake Garda) where the Rock master competition is held every summer. However, every valley has a wall suitable for any ability.

Dozens of other training grounds have been set up in a number of other centres in Trentino where you can climb in complete safety. In addition, there are many equipped indoor facilities even in public parks and artificial walls used for rock climbing meetings and competitions. Many of the 150 Alpine guides in Trentino are also qualified to teach rock climbing, while courses and specialisations are organised throughout the summer by the many schools in operation.

climb-trento

PLEASE READ:

If you can get to one of the sites I have described: be sure and buy the local guidebook if it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend and routes I have tried over the years, I cannot tell you how some of the routes are now since I do not climb at the same level.

Trentino-Alto Adige Climbing Sites
Brentonico Passo S. Giovanni Spiaggia della Lucertole Massone
Arco Comp Wall San Paolo Nuovi Orizzonti Torlino
Celva Nembia San Lorenzo in Banale Poza Vecia
Palestra del Doss Mejo Pejo La Palestra di Malè Nago
Massone Val S. Nicolo Le Streghe Grigno
Sottosassa Funes-Malga Zanes Valle di Landro Putia
Mara Meisules dalla Biesces Cansla Sass Dl Acia Balparola
Bernardi Palestra Bernardi Sassi di Carezza Marder Platte
Boarwald Rifiano Sefnarwand Ungmann
Tobl Malga Zanes Val di Landro Passo Sella - Ciavzes
Val S. Nicolo Ronchi - Moena Rorno - Palestra Giulio Gabrielli Sottosassa
Castelpietra San Silvestro Totoga Carzano
Val di Sella Fonzaso Val di Schievenin  

Spiaggia delle Lucertole Climbing Area, Trento Province

Spiaggia delle Lucertole Climbing Area, Trento Province

Spiaggia Lucertole Rock Climbing Site Italy

Spiaggia delle Lucertole is located along the eastern shore of Lake Garda and in the Trentino-Alto Adige Region.  The climbing site is a nice grey limestone wall with technical routes on a slab wall.  Spiaggia delle Lucertole was bolted in the late 70's or early 80's by some of the historical climbers of the region.  Once a popular place to climb the area is now a bit polished and most people visiting the area, are there to climb the beginner slab walk on the opposite side. 

Spiaggia delle Lucertole would be an excellent deep water solo site if the wall was overhanging, instead you risk hitting the wall is you fall from higher up.  The base of the routes can be reached by lowering off from above. Be sure to have a good sling to attach yourself to the wall with that is long enough for you to be comfortable in the belay.

Spiaggia Lucertole Map

SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Trentino Alto Adige
PROVINCE Trento Province
LOCATION Arco
GEOGRAPHY Monte Baldo
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES 20+
GRADE RANGE 6a+ to 7c
TYPE OF ROUTES technical, crimps, footwork
HEIGHT 35 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, sling for belaying below

Special notes:  Parking is limited and not always safe.  Be sure to leave nothing in your car. 

GETTING TO SPIAGGIA DELLE LUCERTOLE

If you are climbing at Spiaggia delle Lucertole it is most likely because you are visiting the Arco Climbing Area.  So coming north from Torbole you will drive south along Lake Garda.  The climbing area is about 10 km from Torbole.  If you are driving from somewhere other than Arco I would suggest you exit at the Rovereto Sud autostrade exit and following the signs to Riva del Grade until you arrive to Torbole.  Driving up the lake from the south is a nice drive but if you are there during a weekend or holiday season there is too much traffic.

You can reach the area by bus from the Rovereto Train station. 

Serrada Climbing Area, Trento Province

Serrada is a small crag located in the Pre-Alps, at 1250 meters elevation, making it a good location for the hotter months. The crag is a vertical sheer of Grey limestone that offers 36 routes, to date, ranging from 6a to 7b.  There is still room for future development and the quality of rock makes climbing enjoyable and changeling on small edges.  Good finger strength and technique are demanded.

SERRADA ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Trentino Alto Adige
PROVINCE Trento Province
LOCATION Rovereto
GEOGRAPHY Monte Lessini
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
NUMBER OF ROUTES 30+
GRADE RANGE 6a+ to 7c
TYPE OF ROUTES technical, crimps, footwork
HEIGHT 35 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick draws, sling for belaying below

Special notes:

Massone (Policromuro) Climbing Area, Trento Province

Rock Climbing Arco Trento, Massone

Massone is still one of the most popular climbing sites in Italy.  If you are in the Arco area you will want to head up to this multi-colored wall, (the other name for the Massone area is Policromuro, which translates to multi-colored wall).  A solid grey and red striped limestone wall with over 130+ routes ranging from 5a to 8c.  This is a great mid-season area or winter site, otherwise the rock tends to get slippery on hotter days due to the polished rock.  In the summer it is best to climb in the late afternoon, and in winter it is best to climb early morning.

Massone, Arco Rock Climbing Area

MASSONE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

ROCK CLIMBING AREA Arco Climbing Area
NEAREST TOWN Massone
APPROACH TIME 2 minutes
EXPOSURE East
BEST TIME OF YEAR Winter
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 or 70 meter
ROCK Limestone
STYLE Technical, finger strength
NUMBER OF ROUTES 135+ (5b - 8c)

RECOMMENDED ROUTES

  • Kabul (Big Jim) 6b
  • Sovieto supremo 7b+
  • Greta 7a
  • Cannonau 7a
  • Action direct 6c+
  • Halloween 7a

Massone Climbing Area, Arco

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