LORETO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

Rock Climbing Italy, Loreto Climbing Site Liguria

Loreto and Trova Climbing Sites in the Liguria Region of Italy, are located in the upper part of the Argentina valley.  The climbing site is made up of serval small cliffs withe over 100+ fixed routes.  There are still other small cliffs with 20 or less routes.

LORETO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE Imperia
NEAREST CITY Imperia
GEOGRAPHY Italian Alps
Rock Climb Italy, Liguria Region
BEST TIME OF YEAR
Spring and Fall
TYPE OF ROCK
Limestone with edges
HEIGHT
140 meters
RANGE OF GRADES
5b - 7c
LENGTH OF ROPE
60 meters
EQUIPMENT
15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOKS
 

RECOMMENED ROUTES:

  • Lacimi 6b
  • Il Cappello di Eva 5c
  • Tu mi turbi 6c+
  • Vico ale 6a+

CASTELBIANCO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | LIGURIA REGION

Rock Climb Italy, Castelbianco Climbing Site Liguria

A nice alternative to climbing in Finale Ligure, the Castelbianco area has become one of THE destination climbing sites in Italy.  The rock is of the highest quality and climbing is athletic with grades closer to the French style than Italian.  The climbing site is located north of the town of Albenga in the Pennavaira valley. Castelbiano is the primary site, but there are multiple crags in the valley.

CASTELBIANCO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE Savona
CLOSEST CITY Albenga
GEOGRAPHY Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall to Spring is the best season or late evening in Summer
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone with varied features
HEIGHT 100 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 5c to 8a
LENGTH OF ROPE 60 meters
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOK/MAPS  

RECCOMENDED ROUTES:

  • Bissia 7a
  • Ombre rossa 7a
  • Timida 6c+
  • Cindy wau wau 6c+
  • Aladdin 7a
  • Dulfer in fondo 7a

MUZZERONE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | LIGURIA REGION

muzzarone

Great site just south of popular tourist destination of Cinque Terre (5 lands). The climbing is on good quality limestone that sits above the rocky coast of the Ligurian Sea. There are several small sectors, each with a few quality routes, I enjoyed the central wall and the Atlantide sectors. There are plenty of things to enjoy in the area and a few other climbing areas inland in case of poor weather.

MUZZERONE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE La Spezia
NEAREST CITY La Spezia

Rock Climb Italy, Muzzarone Climb Map

BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone, pockets and columns
HEIGHT 200 meters
LENGTH OF ROPE 70 meters
EQUIPMENT  15 quick-draws
GUIDE BOOK  

There are several sectors to climb at each has a variety of difficulties and styles

 SECTORS

Rock Climb Italy, Muzzarone Sectors

1. PARETE CENTRALE
2. SPECCHIO and ATLANTIDE
3. GARIMPO
4 POLVERIERA and POLERIERA
5 CAJENNA
6 ORATORIO and PARETE STRIATA
7. MANDRACHIA

FINALE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | TUSCANY REGION

finale liguria

Rock climbing at Finale first became popular in 1970's and 1980's and quickly built a reputation as "the" place to go sport climbing in Italy. In recent years it has become more popular again due to the recent activity in opening many new areas and routes. The area of Finale Ligure offers fantastic diverse sports climbing of great quality and character, with over 20 crags offering over 2000 routes. There is everything from single pitch sports routes to multi-pitch bolted routes up to 250m long, both inland and at the coast near Capo Noli.

FINALE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE

REGION Liguria
PROVINCE Savona
NEAREST CITY Finale Ligure
GEOGRAPHY Italian Alps
BEST TIME OF YEAR All Year
TYPE OF ROCK Limestone
HEIGHT 300 meters
RANGE OF GRADES 4-8b
LENGTH OF ROPE 70 meter
EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws (3-4 extra slings)
GUIDE BOOK  

 

 SECTORS

Rock Climb Italy, Finale Climbing Secotrs

1. Caprazoppe
2. Rocce dell'Orera
3. Parelina di Finalborgo
4 Rocca di Perti
5 Placce delle Case Valle
6 Parete Dimenticata
7 Monte Sordo
8 Pian Marino
9 Bric Scimarco
10 Tre Frati
11 Bric Grigio
12 Kattedrale
13 Konvento
14 Bric del Frate
15 Bric Pianarella
16 Bric Spaventaggi
17 Monte Cucco
18 Rian Cornei
19 Val di Nava
20 Bationata di Boragni
21 Lacremia
22 Bric Reseghe
23 Casa dei Vacche
24 Rocca degli Uccelli
25 Rocca di Corno
26 Le Manie
27 Capo Noli

LIGURIA REGION ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE 

Portovenere

Liguria has been the winter destination for climbers in the Eastern Regions of Italy for several years. Finale is perhaps the second largest bolted area in Italy, behind Arco in the Trentino region. There are some classic routes that are part of Italy's and Europe's sport climbing history in Finale, and in the last 15 years some other crags in various valleys have gained notice.

If you can get to one of the sites I have listed, be sure to buy the local guidebook especially if it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend are routes I have tried over the years, not all routes will be up to date.

Map to the Rock Climbing Areas in the Liguria Region of Italy

CLIMBING SITES IN THE LIGURIA REGION ITALY

  • Varazze
  • Tirora
  • Toirano
  • Scagilun da lelua
  • Riva Trigoso
  • Punta Manara
  • Praglia
  • Orca Feglino
  • Maggirasca
  • Lago Valnoci
  • La Sfinge - Delva
  • Cravasco
  • Balardetto

BEST TIME TO CLIMB IN LIGURIA REGION

Liguria has been a winter climbing destination for most European climbers.  The weather is mild enough for 4-6 hours of climbing and there are sites you can frequent even if it is raining.  There other attraction is that there are lots of cheap sleeps since it is off season for the sea side resorts.

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