Rockclimbing Guide Italy

CASTELBIANCO ROCK CLIMBING AREA | LIGURIA REGION A nice alternative to climbing in Finale Ligure, the Castelbianco area has become one of THE destination climbing sites in Italy.  The rock is of the highest quality and climbing is athletic with grades closer to the French style than Italian.  The climbing site is located north of the town of Albenga in the Pennavaira valley. Castelbiano is the primary site, but there are multiple crags in the valley. CASTELBIANCO ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE REGION Liguria PROVINCE Savona CLOSEST CITY Albenga GEOGRAPHY Alps BEST TIME OF YEAR Fall to Spring is the best season or late evening in Summer TYPE OF ROCK Limestone with varied features HEIGHT 100 meters RANGE OF GRADES 5c to 8a LENGTH OF ROPE 60 meters EQUIPMENT 15 quick-draws GUIDE BOOK/MAPS   RECCOMENDED ROUTES: Bissia 7a Ombre rossa 7a Timida 6c+ Cindy wau wau 6c+ Aladdin 7a Dulfer in fondo 7a

Rockclimbing Guide to the liguria region

CLIMBING GUIDE to italy Climbing in Liguria Liguria has been the winter destination for climbers in the Eastern Regions of Italy for several years. Finale is perhaps the second largest bolted area in Italy, behind Arco in the Trentino region. There are some classic routes that are part of Italy's and Europe's sport climbing history in Finale, and in the last 15 years some other crags in various valleys have gained notice. If you can get to one of the sites I have listed, be sure to buy the local guidebook especially if it is being sold by someone who has bolted routes in the area. The routes I recommend are routes I have tried over the years, not all routes will be up to date. CLIMBING SITES IN THE LIGURIA REGION ITALY Loreto Rock Climbing Site in Liguria Italy Muzzerone Rock Climbing Site Liguria Italy Castelbianco Climbing Site in Liguria Italy Finale Rock Climbing Site in Liguria Italy Varazze Tirora Toirano Scagilun da lelua Riva Trigoso Punta Manara Praglia Orca Feglino Maggirasca Lago Valnoci La Sfinge - Delva Cravasco Balardetto BEST TIME TO CLIMB IN LIGURIA REGION Liguria is especially popular for winter climbing. The weather is mild enough for 4-6 hours of climbing and there are sites you can frequent even if it is raining. As it is off season for the sea side resorts, you can find plenty of options for cheap accomodation in the area in the winter months. 

Rockclimbing Guide Italy

MUZZERONE ROCK CLIMBING AREA | LIGURIA REGION Great site just south of popular tourist destination of Cinque Terre (5 lands). The climbing is on good quality limestone that sits above the rocky coast of the Ligurian Sea. There are several small sectors, each with a few quality routes, I enjoyed the central wall and the Atlantide sectors. There are plenty of things to enjoy in the area and a few other climbing areas inland in case of poor weather. MUZZERONE ROCK CLIMBING GUIDE REGION Liguria PROVINCE La Spezia NEAREST CITY La Spezia BEST TIME OF YEAR Spring and Fall TYPE OF ROCK Limestone, pockets and columns HEIGHT 200 meters LENGTH OF ROPE 70 meters EQUIPMENT  15 quick-draws GUIDE BOOK   There are several sectors to climb at each has a variety of difficulties and styles  SECTORS 1. PARETE CENTRALE 2. SPECCHIO and ATLANTIDE 3. GARIMPO 4 POLVERIERA and POLERIERA 5 CAJENNA 6 ORATORIO and PARETE STRIATA 7. MANDRACHIA