Bouldering Guide To Italy
MAIOLO BOULDERING AREA | EMILIA ROMAGNA
Fortress of San Leo
The Maiolo bouldering area is a small group of sandstone bloc's that sit in the hills southwest of the Republic of San Marino, in the Emilia Romagna Region. The boulder problems are marked by name, and most are single problems with one obvious solution, not eliminators. The landing area is safe, but in the warmer months the site tends to get overgrown, so keep an eye out for snakes and ticks. There are 50 blocs listed by the locals but during my visit I found almost 20 good sized blocs with solid problems. The rest of the blocs are small and "if I have nothing better to climb" type of blocs. If you are visiting the Republic of San Marino or Rimini, and like to do a few problems, Maiolo Bouldering area is worth the visit. As well if you passing near Rimini and need a rest stop this is a great visit off the main tourist trek with lots of extras to visit.
GETTING TO THE MAIOLO BOULDERING AREA
The town to head toward is Rimini. Then link up with the A-14 autostrada section running between Bologna and Rimini. You will want to take the Nord Rimini exit and follow SP-49 south to San Martino di Mulini. From here turn south on SS- 249 (also marked as SP-14 in some sections) to the town of Ca' di Vento. Just after Ca di Vento turn following the signs to Maiolo (SP Montefeltrese) passing through the small community of Maiolo and then turning left to Boscara. You will park at the intersection of via Poggio and walk to the bouldering site.
Latitude: 43*52'56.81"N
Longitude: 12*19'41.72"E
View from Poggio
MAIOLO BOULDERING GUIDE
| REGION | Emilia Romagna Region |
| PROVINCE | Forli-Cesena Province |
| NEAREST MAJOR CITY | Rimini |
| BEST TIME OF YEAR | Fall, Winter, and early Spring |
| TYPE OF ROCK | Sandstone |
| LANDING | Good, |
| HEIGHT OF BLOCKS | 1-3 meters |
| GRADES | 4 - 7c |
| NUMBER OF BLOC'S | 53 |
| VISIT DAYS | 2-3 Days |
| GUIDEBOOK | None known |
BOULDERS AT THE MAIOLO SITE
| Bloc 0 | Zerox3= Che dolore N.L. (sit), 3verso N.L. (sit), Bordo Dx 5a (sit), Bordo Sx 4b (sit) |
| Bloc 1 | Jump 6b, Tintorera 8?, Black block 6a+ (7a+ sit), Orangesite 7a (sit) |
| Bloc 2 | ZiHulk 6b+ (sit), Spigoplus 7b (sit) |
| Bloc 3 | La bocca della verità 6c (sit) |
| Bloc 4 | No fire here 6b (sit), Acqua 6a (sit), Micio incredibilis 7a (sit), Tacco e punta 6b+ (sit) |
| Bloc 5 | Dotazione naturale 6a (sit), Il trippone 6c (sit), Il piatto del trippone 7a (trippone allungato sit), Micro N.L. (sit) |
| Bloc 6 | Giro di punta 5c (sit), Maura dove sei ? Varie 3a Spazzolami 3a |
| Bloc 7 | Zaganella 4a |
| Bloc 8 | L'abbraccio della morte N.L., Eliporto 7a Atterraggio interdetto 6b (sit), Gorka Morka 7c+, Diapomania 6c+, Zenigata alle urne 5c, Vota Lupen 4c, Pesce di maggio 4b, Zio fifone bis 5a |
| Bloc 10 | Barella 5c (sit), Rocco la merda N.L. |
| Bloc 11 | Progetto ?, Inferi sx 6b (sit), Inferi sx 6b+ (sit), Il folletto 6a (sit), Equilibrium 6a (6b sit), Superbia 5b (sit), Io zombo 5a (sit), Vuzzero 5a (sit), Patana 6a (sit), Ombra atomica 7b+, Progetto |
| Bloc 12 | Potaland 6a (6a+ var.dir.) |
| Bloc 13 | Magnesite sul saio 6b (sit), Il monaco di Maiolo N.L., Fabihook 6b+ |
| Bloc 14 | Il lungo e il baro 6b/c (sit), Booh! 6c, Nueva onda 6b/c, Booh!+Nueva onda 7a+, Mi tengo 7b/c (sit) |
| Bloc 15 | Varie facili |
| Bloc 16 | La visita 6a+, Grande prestazione 6a, Cu-cu 5b, Acido lattico ?, Mario five.. maestro nike 4a |
| Bloc 18 | La morale è sempre quella 6b+, Girella 6a+, Zio fifone 5b (sit), Golosastro 6b (senza intermedi), Notevole 7a |
| Bloc 19 | Avarizia 6b (sit), Asparagi ?, Cazzi amari ?, Spotter ?, Nirvana 4b |
| Bloc 20 | Tracce di magnesite 7a (sit), Ciao Oscar 6c (sit), Il coraggio dello zio 5a, Saga dx 6a (sit) sx 6a+, Sedutone (sit) N.L., Ribaltone 5a (sit), Raga 5b (sit) |
| Bloc 21 | Varie facili |
| Bloc 23 | Zeccarella 6a |
| Bloc 25 | Oplà 6a (sit), Kirikù 7a (sit) |
| Bloc 26 | Sergente Garcia 6b, El robusto 6b+, Daver dur 7c/7c+ (sit), Nelsen 7a (allungata fino a sergente garcia 7b), Cip 6a, Ciop 5c, Uigang 5b, Hispanico 6a+, Italico N.L., Gola N.L. (sit) |
| Bloc 27 | Il saltamario 6c (sit) |
| Bloc 28 | Cubo N.L. (sit) |
| Bloc 30 | Lussuria 5b (sit), Il nuovo aiutante 5c (sit) |
| Bloc 32 | L’ombra del convento N.L. |
| Bloc 34 | Penitentes 6b (sit) |
| Bloc 35 | Tra fede e trazione 6a+ |
| Bloc 36 | Ira 6c+ (sit), Keno 6a (sit), Keno+Ira 7a+ (sit) |
| Bloc 37 | Invidia 5b |
| Bloc 40 | Sotto la neve 6a (sit), Blocco barocco 6c (sit), Brocco chi non passa 6a+ (sit), Accidia 6a (sit), Stratagoing (facile) |
| Bloc 41 | Mely baby 3c |
| Bloc 43 | Blocdi briscola 6b ?, (variante senza bucone) 7a |
| Bloc 44 | 30 cavalli per un funerale N.L. |
| Bloc 45 | Titanic 6b+ (sit), La schiena del mondo N.L. |
| Bloc 48 | 30 volte Panda (3 varianti sit) fino al 6a |
| Bloc 49 | Stile Oscar 6a+ (sit), Lo ripianto più in là 6b (sit), Non riesco a lolottare 5a (sit) |
| Bloc 51 | Peace for war 6b (sit) |
| Bloc 52 | Fiori gialli (sit) ?, Pioggia (sit) ? |
| Bloc 53 | Ego ? (sit) |