Inside the Parco delle Macedonie, in one of the most scenic mountain areas in Sicily, Monte d’Oro even if it isn’t one of the highest mountains in this area it has the majority of climbing opportunities, in terms of modern Sport climbing. Soft rolling hills on the northern face, while a good red and grey limestone make up the southern and western face, 100 meters high. The long rocky band of these rock faces made up by large compact walls, and cut by dihedrals. It is on these faces of these that the most part of the itineraries are found, right where the line of ascent seems most logical.
All the routes are marked with an arrow at the bottom of the crag.
For those coming from the A20 Palermo-Messina exit at Buonfornello, take the SS113 towards Messina, then go towards Campofelice di Roccella and then towards Collesano. Proceed towards Scillato for roughly three kilometres and at the height of the little house on the right hand side of the road with ”NINO” written on the rock face, take a little downhill road to the right. After about 150 metres leave your car near a gate on the fence that borders with the field on the right. For those coming from Catania from the A19 exit at Scillato, proceed in the direction of Collesano till you reach the above mentioned little house that will instead this time be on the left hand side. You will be able to access the crag from the plateau below from which an obvious trail sets off sign posted by cairns and red marks.
At Collesano you will find restaurants and hotels and it is easy to stack up with water at the town’s water fountains. It is also possible to sleep comfortably in a tent on the plateau over the crags, nobody will disturb you. The nearby towns of Piano Zucchi and Piano Battaglia, where you will find refuges and hotels which you can reach by following directions to Collesano, are great starting points for pleasant excursions in the Madonie group.
ACCESS TO THE SOUTH FACE RIGHT HAND SECTOR
From the plateau just below the rock faces go to your right following a trail and you will reach the base of two obvious rocks that indicate the start of the routes.
SOUTH FACE LEFT HAND SECTOR
This is the most interesting and imposing sector, head towards the slope that divides the two sectors, gain a few meters by walking up until you meet a trail that on your left takes you to the base of the crag.